Saturday, November 15, 2025

A Life of Miracles - Looking back on my life

A Life of Miracles

        When I look back at the six decades of my life that passed by, I am overcome with gratitude for all the miraculous inflections that nudged my life trajectory to an unknown purpose, in a clearly unconventional direction each time. 

        Several of those twists and turns were made consciously with my head and heart knowing full well that the path was a less trodden one. In fact, I continue to do that with abandon now, giving my instincts the pride of place they deserve.

        Some of the inflections that I recount below are the ones that made me who I am and how I feel today. I sincerely feel that it is the divine grace operating in my life while also giving me an unencumbered mind to recognize it at critical junctures. 

        C L A R I T Y, thy name is God!!

1. Initiation into Music

        I have been crooning the popular tunes of the day ever since I was a kid and I had even learnt a few songs from teachers, friends and acquaintances and radio. During one of our visits to our native place, I had learnt a few devotional songs from my great grandmother too. But that was it. There was no formal instruction, nor did I expressly harbour any such desires.

        When I was in 10th grade, I had once enrolled myself in a music competition for the school annual day. I had planned to sing a Telugu patriotic song - "Maa Telugu talliki malle poodanDa" (a jasmine garland for our mother Telugu).  One of the school lecturers agreed to teach me and I still distinctly remember walking to his house on the quiet rural road of VETapAlem in Andhra.  I ended up tying with another boy for the first prize, and I got to repeat the performance at the Annual day event as well.

       There was indeed music in several corners within me somewhere. However, I never really learnt anything formally until I landed up in the house opposite Rajam aunty's house in Secunderabad. My hunch is that arts were not prioritized in boys in those days.

        I would not have guessed that music would take centre stage later on in my life. Having finished Engineering and going about my HAL 'career' like an automaton, I was thrust into music lessons by my sister-in-law as she was also interested and needed some company. The three years in HAL were very demotivating for me with no incentive to learn or work hard.  

        Fortunately, during those very years, I encountered Carnatic music through Rajam aunty who has later come to be known as Om aunty. Aunty was the ex-principal of Military school and extremely well-read and well-travelled and had a passion for languages. She could speak in English, Hindi, Tamil, Telugu and in Kannada, that being her mother tongue. She was also a spiritual seeker (Sadhak).

        Until then, I was not impressed by the music I had a chance to listen on the radio. So, I was a bit reluctant at first. I can still recall the electric feeling when I heard pure musical notes. I could get lost in those notes as I practised.  I was hooked and was also a natural learner. There was certainly a gift that I possessed. In terms of music, those three years were like drinking at a fire hose.

        I would also read books on music theory widely, discuss with aunty and listen to a wide variety of vintage music that I had obviously missed out till then. It was like a musical awakening for me and aunty was its principal architect. 

        Aunty was more than a music teacher for me, though. I learnt so much from her - be in English, communication, etiquette, deportment, chants, meditation, devotion and many beautiful episodes during her interaction with the sages of Rishikesh and Mukteswar etc. I would spend hours with aunty and uncle after class almost daily and have dinner with them on many nights.  

        I would also hang around with seniors (thrice my age) and chant stotras, Vishnu Sahasra namam, Siva Mahimna Stotram, Nama Ramayanam, Hanuman Chalisa and bhajans etc.  It was really like a clarion call for me as a human being. 

        Meeting aunty and learning from her has been a huge blessing and a turning point in my life. I had a chance to host her once at my home in the US and meet her many times since my return to India. The fact that I was able to meet her one final time two weeks before her passing at the age of 88 and had a very deep conversation and bonded makes me feel blessed and complete. I am indebted to her for being there in my life at a critical formative stage.

        She was also instrumental in reseeding the idea of going to the US in me for MS - in a field different from Electronics.  But I did not know then that the journey in music aunty started me on would later become my very life purpose.

2. Flying away to the US

        During the final year of my engineering program, it was very common for many in my class to land admissions and scholarships to the US.  On my way to college, I had studied in many schools spread across rural India and spoke English in college for the first time though some practice was there in my Intermediate (11th grade) with my Tamil friend Sriram at Loyola College, Vijayawada. Western culture, dressing and music were alien to me nor did they hold any particular attraction.  So, going to the US wasn't on my radar and besides, I had no clue why I was studying Electronics or what I would do with it in future. 

        But curiously, I was deeply attracted to languages - first English followed by Tamil. When I discovered the dictionary, my interest only grew. I would collect all the unfamiliar English words that I came across all day and look them all up and write down the meanings, etymology and context in which I found them, at the end of the day.  My excitement knew no bounds when I chanced upon those very words in the next few days. My vocabulary and understanding of English gradually took deep root.

        I would also spend much of my free time in the reference section of the college library reading books on history, world wars, astronomy, comics like Asterix, Tintin and poetry.  The fact that I was now able to understand the subtleties of the content made me even more curious.  I would later venture into classics like Shakespeare and humour a la PG Wodehouse.

        All this dalliance with English motivated me to write GRE and TOEFL exams since I enjoyed the verbal sections so much though I wasn't all that clear about what I would do with an advanced degree in Electronics. I felt quite stuck regarding the subject of my study which was done under family pressure.

        As part of my exploration of English, I enjoyed devouring books by Norman Lewis and Rosenblum. I would read books that were to be read and practiced in 6 weeks, in mere 2 days. Though I got some admissions without scholarships, I chose not to go because I did not want to drive the nail in harder by investing more time in a field that held no interest for me. Thank God for those first signs of wisdom that I did not ignore!

        I lumbered on at HAL - completely demotivated and feeling listless.  I kept it up so that I wouldn't be pushed into my brother's enterprise. I was at the receiving end of 'Fratriarchy'!! I knew I would not see light anymore if I ever let that happen.

        I was still clueless as to what lay ahead of me, but I was clear about not joining a master's program in Electronics in India or abroad just to keep myself busy. I then decided to try to get a seat in one of the IIMs and other management institutes. I tried for 2 years, wrote competitive exams, participated in group discussions etc. I received calls for around 10 interviews at the end of those two attempts. I got great practice of "putting myself out there" while going completely against my grain.  However, I did not get through any of them, but I was put on the waiting list for IIM Bangalore after my second attempt. 

        My music teacher, upon discrete prodding from my family, impressed upon me to find something else to study in the US, the promised land. All her 3 children were in the US. I found some general engineering courses like Industrial Engineering, Management Engineering and I finally got into NJIT in 1987. After securing the prized Visa to the US, I ended up getting into IIM, Bangalore finally. But, I felt that the die was already cast and the idea of going far away from family captivated me. 
   
        Despite the hardship of going so far and getting comfortable in a foreign land, I set off to the US on August 14th, 1987, and reached the US on the 15th of August (Indian Independence Day). That was the first major critical decision in my life which shaped everything that came after it.  During those first few months and years, I would discover myself, acknowledge my skills and strengths through the encouragement and appreciation of many generous professors, students and roommates I interacted with.

        In my first semester at NJIT, I had to present in one management class that I enrolled in, every week. It's something that I never did before. The professor would single me out many times pointing out my preparation, initiative and other positive traits. Another would praise my work ethic publicly. Finally, my sincere application through the entire first semester landed me the only research assistantship in my department.  I started to believe in myself and worked with redoubled zeal.

        My stint of 15 years in the US wasn't all a bed of roses. Many unsavoury experiences can be recalled but somehow, they haven't left any trace of resentment in me.  They all taught me something precious and I learnt not to unduly deprecate myself. 15 years abroad has expanded my mind, horizons and a clear sense of self and made me all the richer for it.

3. Finding my life partner


        I did this whole thing in the old-fashioned way of turning to family for help.  They 'rose to the occasion' by securing many potential suitors through media blitz and word of mouth.
        
        During the summer break of 1989, in between my graduate programs, I met my future wife on May 24 to be precise. Through a quirk of providence, she was the first in the list I met since she was a local person from Hyderabad. 

        She struck me as confident, upfront (not bashful), intelligent, articulate and beautiful. I left with a very nice feeling and hoped that she would agree.  The next 10 days were gruelling as we didn't hear even a whimper from them. I was adamant that I would not like to see anyone else until they got back in the negative.  I didn't like the idea of shopping around and creating a short list of 'candidates'. I stuck to my guns and went with my gut feeling of how I felt in her presence. That became the foundation for the very important decision in my life.

        Upon some prodding from a common acquaintance, we found out that they were waiting on us to get back to them. Typical Indian gridlock! I met her on June 2nd for the second time at their home again and was able to grab a few minutes to speak privately with her about my interests and my shortcomings since I really wanted to be transparent with her from the get-go and build the foundation on truth.

        We married on June 26th after 'dating' post facto and getting to know each other more during the interim period. To this day, what I value about our relationship is the ethics, integrity, transparency, intelligence and passion and love and light that she brings to me and family and in fact, any gathering she is in. The rest is history, as they say!

4. Homebound


        I started my PhD program after my marriage. I was in a new state, new college, new program and had a new car and a new partner. We set up our home tastefully within our budget. Money was tight but enough. After completing the program in 3 years, I walked right into recession. Jobs were hard to come by. After a nerve-wracking 8 months of job search, I got a job with Intel after a botched attempt at another company. That company, incidentally, is no more!

        Work moved us to bucolic Portland, Oregon - a place where we had a great time for over 8 years. Portland's rustic small town feel and verdant open spaces and flowers and berries were wonderful for us.  A friend, Ann we met introduced us to many good things of life in the US - gardens, farmers markets, cuisines, baking, jamming, brunches. We would be in each other's garden almost on a daily basis. We would drink lots of tea and the ladies would make lots of jams and cook.  

        10 years and two kids later, I had a chance to grow Intel India operations from the US. Even then, I had no inkling of moving back to India. In fact, when my manager asked me if I was interested in a new manager position in India, I flatly refused.  In my continued work with Intel India, a strong longing started to emerge in me to move back home to India while giving the kids the substantial grounding and the India experience.  Planets aligned and wife/kids reluctantly agreed, and I returned home with a new job in a new area under a new manager.

        The initial years were tough for my wife and kids though I glided into the familiar Intel environment despite many quirky Indian touches to working in Intel India.  It also had its own brand of politics.  I moved around through 5 jobs in 10 years. While it wasn't all smooth sailing, I haven't regretted my decision ever.

        I liked the smells, sounds and the informality of India. We made many lifelong friends who had also moved back just like us and stayed put. My wife was presented an opportunity to own and run a floral enterprise. It was a no-brainer that she took it as horticulture and plants were always her passions.  Kids developed a strong bond with India though they have since moved to other climes to experiment with their education and career choices.  

        We continue to be here, and it is well-nigh impossible for us to move 'back' to the US and despite our many visits to the promised land, US holds absolutely no attraction for us.  In fact, kids encourage us to stay back since they see us so happy with meaningful lives and beautiful friendships.  

        Looking back, this decision was done more with heart than head and that is probably why it continues to make me happy whatever the numbers may be. In my heart of hearts, I want to merge with the soil of Bharat when the final moments do finally arrive. 

5. F.I.R.E. (Financial Independence Retire Early)


        These days, when I meet new people, the question of what I do comes up invariably. I often respond that I am trying my best not to do much.

        But, seriously though, I always knew that a life of retirement for me would never be a nightmare filled with dreadful vacuum.  I always enjoyed solitude, and my passions for reading, writing, music, gardening, yoga and spiritual pursuits etc. I really had no idea in what specific form they would occupy my time.  That's why I often quip that I was born to retire.  The life of assumed identities of the world didn't ever matter much to me beyond a point.  Perhaps, I have gradually grown out of them. If I recall correctly, my challenge during my working years was to know how not to be invisible and to keep jutting into the foreground to fit corporate norms for a senior leader.  That was a phase!

        The idea of retirement was hence not alien to me and has, in fact crossed my mind often.  In fact, for about 2 years before my retirement from a lucrative job, I have actively considered it by reviewing my finances against estimated expenses while accounting for our combined life spans.  I felt that the idea was not that far-fetched if I monetized some of the assets and lived in peace. But I was not yet clear when exactly to hang up my boots as the kids had not even finished high school by then. 

        The universe finally decided that for me by giving me a gentle push. That was how it felt when I received an email from work in the summer of 2012. I was in the USA after dropping my eldest daughter in a US college and was visiting our friends in Houston. I was just synching up my work emails just to see how the rest of the world was holding up without me!  I was already on leave for several weeks by then. 

        The moment I saw that email which presented me a royal, lucrative way of retiring, my blink response was that it was Godsend. I could not believe that this nudge from the universe was real. I did not imagine this type of a situation at all in my analysis thus far.  I really did not need to do any further analysis to be able to decide my next steps.  

        I must thank my wife who supported me in this critical decision though she had her share of doubts and fears since people don't often retire like this if they don't have to - surely, not when both kids haven't even completed their college and they themselves barely turned 50. 

        I was never of the type of polling a whole lot of friends and family regarding such personal decisions since I feel they, especially family, doesn't really know me or what drives me.  My mother who was alive then, was quizzical but otherwise, did not create a whole lot of fuss.

        I was on cloud 9 in the month or two I still had with Intel after the decision was submitted to Intel and it has been communicated to the rest of the organization. My final day at Intel was Dec 2nd, 2012.  I joined a yoga retreat that was happening in our own home from the very next day.  I was whole heartedly into what I was learning as my body and mind felt free to take on whatever might come my way.

        I have never once regretted my decision to retire early.

6. The Second Innings


        In my primary career, my main objective was to take advantage of a few of my strengths and provide for the family.  However, that phase ended when I chose to retire from Intel.  When we let go of such conventional constraints, we feel free. In my farewell lunch at work, a colleague asked me as to what I planned to do once I ride off into the Sunset.  I told him what was on my mind - that I wanted to write and wanted to see if anyone would pay for it.

        During the first year or two, I spoke to a few of my creative and writer friends and that led to a few other business connections. I later worked for a content creation agency and also did a few ghost-writing gigs for over 10 companies for 6 years on a free-lance basis.  I was never busy with work for more than 3 to 4 hours a day; I was just mildly occupied. During that stint, I enjoyed the magic I could do with words. Words and languages were my passions for over 40 years and so, it all came easily to me. 

        I was mostly writing on Technology and business and the format ranged from whitepapers, websites, case studies, monographs to even blurbs. 

        This was not certainly extremely lucrative by any means but that did not matter to me.  I just enjoyed transforming ideas into words, abstracting clients' thoughts into significant statements and bringing my own personal work experience to my writing. So, it was great joy to work without the bother of economics. 

        It was good while it lasted and I had finally retired from my second career as well after 2020. 

Encounter with Sadhguru


        I did not know about Sadhguru or Isha Foundation till 2014. I did not watch any of his videos or know of his work.  But I vividly remember seeing a long-bearded sadhu on a TV panel discussion many years ago and being impressed at his clarity and communication.  He was engaging with 'intellectuals' during that discussion and seeing a sadhu in that setting taking on mundane issues felt strange enough that it stayed in my memory. 

        My actual major encounter with Sadhguru was dramatic to say the least.  A vendor that my wife worked with impressed on my wife that both my wife and me would benefit from the Isha Inner Engineering program and in fact, suggested we do that separately.
        
        My wife told me about it on the same evening and urged me to sign up for it as she knew that I was looking for a structured yoga program for some time.  In fact, for the whole 2 years after my exit from corporate career, I have been literally praying for it daily - to have a yoga regimen that will grow and evolve with me till the very end.  I didn't know what it was and did not even search for it on google as I am not big on Internet search for things like this. 

        So, when I heard this suggestion from my wife, I instantly looked up the Isha website and found that there was a Tamil program - a retreat of 3.5 days at the Isha Yoga Centre - happening that very month.  I signed up for it as I did not want to wait a few more months for the next English program. I could not even understand the urgency that was driving me like this but, all I can say now is that the driving force was from without.

        I had no idea of the extent of the ashram temples and activities or what I would find there.  As it was a retreat, the program took place in the Nalanda cottage premises, a beautiful and comfortable space expressly designed for the ultimate program experience and effectiveness.  The program is intelligently christened as Inner Engineering which would satisfy our overly logical minds and what was transmitted there was Shambhavi Mahamudra kriya as part of the initiation on the final day. I realized I had difficulty understanding some Tamil words, but the teacher and co-participants were very accommodating.

        At first, I was very sceptical about the many temples - Dhyanalinga, Lingabharavi there in that I saw them as religious rituals. In some corner, I was resisting that as the rituals I was exposed to as a child were found to be hollow superstitions and did not impress me much.  I was conflicted though I wanted to follow what was being suggested.

        Looking back at my own unbroken journey with Isha over the last 11 years, it all seems to fit into an invisible divine puzzle when I think of how the word about Isha yoga came to me and the urgency with which I acted on it.

        For me now, the runway ahead looks clear and purposeful. It also feels like that it was a reminder for what was once familiar to me in a forgotten corner of myself from the long-gone past.

        Many people analyze the activities of Isha and Sadhguru critically and pose the seeming discrepancies to me and challenge me to explain them.  My answer to them is always that all I know is what I have received from Isha/Sadhguru and how it has clarified many things and benefitted me in ways beyond imagination. It is not for me to have an opinion on everything and everyone and I just stick to what I have personally experienced. Other than that, I really feel like I have come home, finally!

My Anchor - My Purpose


        Post retirement life can be an unhinged experience, especially for one who worked all of one's life and lived for one's work.  Though I don't harbour any qualms about not doing 'anything', free time can lose its charm after a year or two. A sense of purpose will make a person look forward to everyday with curiosity, expectation and interest.  Else, complacency and listlessness may take over. If you let that state fester, it could even lead one to the brink of depression.

        I happened to discover yoga the day after I quit regular corporate work.  It certainly had immediate physical results. I could feel body getting toned barely after a week of daily yoga. Two years later, I got initiated into Isha yoga completely by chance (which I call a miracle) which kept me going. I wasn't feeling purposeless anymore but the risk of it might not have been very far.

        My relationship with yoga has also evolved over the years. I used to do yoga at 1 pm since I found it a challenge to keep an empty stomach condition. Gradually, the routine settled down to a routine of ablutions, shower and yoga and the topic of food doesn't come up until after that. 

        I kept up the learning of Carnatic music all along and the thread never broke for too long. I felt that my music learning didn't end as long as there was an unfinished song. 

        In 2018, my mother suddenly fell very ill. She was diagnosed with a virulent brain tumour which was a terminal condition. Doctors gave her few days or months at the most.  She was diagnosed in Bangalore and was taken to Hyderabad later for her final journey.  Dementia had already set in but her love and longing for music remained strong.

        I would spend her final days singing to her and she would have many special requests. At other times, I also had a continuous play list of her favourites playing in her room and continued that even after she lost complete awareness after a month.

        When certain songs played like 'Kurai ondrum illai', she would spontaneously raise her hands in supplication to the invisible God. I saw how music played such a huge role in her final days keeping her in touch with her core self even if brain was quite disjointed. In her last month, she lost all faculties, but music survived still. That struck a very deep chord in me.

        A few months later, sometime in 2019, I decided to just focus on learning music compositions while sidestepping technical elements such as alapana, neraval, swaram which did not come to me naturally and easily.   My teacher supported the idea, thankfully.  I decided to practice daily at 4pm and not fritter away the gift of music.

        "Music is indeed meditation", Sri M says.  Even if I can't concentrate or meditate in silence for long, I can at least sing and treat that as my meditation. 

        Consistent practice and focused learning have worked wonders and have made my voice better, learning deeper and more intuitive and the joy of singing greater. I have my mother's picture watching over me in my music room, perhaps as a sign of the miracle of music that manifested with renewed vigour in my life. It feels like it is her final gift to me. There are several things - baking, gardening, yoga, reading and writing that I do, but music is indeed my anchor and the purpose in my final innings.

______ 00000 ______

                       

Sunday, January 19, 2025

The Enigma of Kumbh



    When concerns of privacy, security and mere quaintness (is that same as outlandishness?) of Kumbh, which is associated with mass ritual bathing in the confluence of holy rivers every 6,12,144 years, were flying around in our group, my head started swimming with my own crowd and health preferences not to mention my own dichotomies and dilemmas.


Not having ever been to a Kumbh of this magnitude, I can only speculate but I certainly know I do not have the authority to preside over the matter with my personal opinion and judge it. I also know that it does not behoove me to be an armchair critic about its premise, management or the use of technologies. After all, what's the use of technology if it cannot be deployed to prevent disasters when such a multitude is gathering in an apparent abandon? 


  I also wonder if it can be swept under the bracket of quaint religious practices or if it is a mystical (tantric) spiritual practice that has been in vogue for thousands of years as part of this unbroken civilization. Have we ever seen such a mass expression of longing for liberation from the physical plane of existence? The people (not counting those who can afford lux tents) who throng the Kumbh with such a force of conviction demand so little while enjoying the munificence of so many ashrams offering free food to enable their arduous journeys. 


  A crowd of this size and nature can go berserk in a trice. While we go around blessing the use of technology for everything under the Sun (when to eat, when to sleep, when to put the phone down etc.), it's perhaps not relevant to suspect the organizers of their big brother intentions. If fires like LA fires were to happen in India, would the world calmly and quietly marvel about nature's fury? I suspect that they will swoop down and pontificate about all the gross inadequacies in the third world. 


  It's also quite reductive to boil this down to mere economics. I know religious tourism is a thing just as health tourism is. It's most likely not the predominant factor. It's also known how temples gave fillip to hyperlocal economies be it Srirangam or Kashi from time immemorial. 


  What cannot be fathomed by our minds doesn't deserve to be brushed off as weird or quaint. That this land is full of contrasts is a known enigma to the world at large. It simply refuses to be locked into in a familiar western frame of reference. That so many are willing to brave discomfort, danger and even death to be at the Kumbh must speak to us of their strong conviction. At the end of the day, India is a love affair that only lovers can make sense of, perhaps. So be it!


  Closing this meditation with a prayer for the welfare of all those who are attending it or involved in managing it. 


Tuesday, December 10, 2024

A Tryst with KAnchipuram

Kanchipuram is an ancient city established in 3rd century BC. It is so close to Bangalore that I wonder why I never made it there for 22 years. 

Kamakshi Amman Koil

For a long time, Kanchi meant Kamakshi to me through many songs on that beautiful form. I dreamed, imagined and sang about the form so much that I was very eager to visit her sannidhi in Kamakshi Amman Koil. That was indeed the first temple I visited barely an hour after I reached Kanchi.

I was approaching the entire Kanchi visit very cautiously so that I don't make it a completion of a To-Do list and miss the forest for the trees. I wanted to feel the intensity of the shrine with all my being.

I wanted to do a pradakshinam before I had the darshan. I wanted to get the whole context and bow down to everything around her before I had the audacity to enter into her sanctum for the darshan. It was 4 PM when I went in and the temple was just reopened for the evening. There was very little crowd. I bought a few lotuses to offer to AmbAL.

I paused at a huge kuLam (Temple Tank) and a peaceful neem tree as I did the pradakshinam and slowly entered the empty lines for free darshan. I went straight into the inner temple and there was a lot of expectation as I recalled the story of the bilam (cave) that Kamakshi was supposed to have come in as a 9 year old and the Gayatri Mandapam on top of it. There was a short pause in the progress of the queue and I used that time to sing Devi Brova by Syama Sastri which is full of the emotion needed to receive her fully. 

Kamakshi Amman Koil 

Kamakshi Amman Koil

I had a beautiful and intimate darshan however fleeting. Abhishekam was being done with milk, water etc. I went around the main sanctum and got back into the line as there was so little crowd and had darshan again from a closer vantage point. 

I came out and was marveling about the beautifully lit gopurams on all 4 sides and the main golden gopuram in the middle while sitting on the steps of a pillared mandapam.

A priest or an administrator mentioned that Alankaram was being done then after which prasadam will be distributed. So, I went in again for darshan. This time, there was some crowd but not too overwhelming. I was trying to be more present and was focusing on the beautiful chanting by Bombay Sisters on the speakers.

Just as I neared a fork in the queue, the right branch was opened and I was let into that line which went even closer without any obstructions. I had the beautiful darshan with her form fully decorated. I was trying to focus on her feet as Vinay Varanasi mentioned a mere glance at the tip of her foot is enough to be granted all that we need and desire. It was difficult to do that as the vastram was covering her feet. I consoled myself that I at least had thought of it.

I came out and lined up for Prasadam - not once or twice or thrice but four times. I had different prasadam each time - miLagu sAdam, Sakkara Pongal, Coconut rice, curd rice and panchamritham. All high quality and tasty. The process and the fruit, both were the best!

That was a magical evening of being with Kamakshi devi and I walked back to the hotel.

On my second day, I went to Kumara KoTTam as the auto anna told me that Tuesdays are special for Murugan there. It was raining due to cyclone that day and I bought an umbrella and set out there that evening. After the darshan  at the relatively small temple, I enquired by chance, the way to go to Kamakshi temple. They gave me a shortcut from behind the temple. I was thankful for the 2 minute shortcut. As I was approaching the Kamakshi temple, a flower lady was literally in tears and getting drenched in the rain requesting me to help her with a call to the shopkeeper who has locked his shop and gone home with her wares inside. I was immediately reminded of Vinay Varanasi's words that Devi could come in any form and his exhortation for us all to be open. I paused there despite the rain and helped her with what she needed. But, I do feel bad that I didn't offer her the protection of my umbrella while we interacted. I did advise her to wait in a dry place for half an hour and to come back and check on the shop. Later, I walked over to the Kamakshi Amman temple and entered into what was now a familiar place.

The free entrance was free of crowds. There was a slight pause near the sanctum as abhishekam just got completed and the curtain was drawn during the alankaram. I was thankful for the wait as I dwelled on her form and grace through Devi Brova (ChintamaNi), Brovavamma (NeelAmbari) and Ekamresha Nayike (Suddha Saveri). There was also really melodious carnatic music being played by the Nadaswaram vidwans. I thoroughly enjoyed it. I finally had the darshan, prasadam and headed back to the hotel via UlagaLanda PerumAL temple.

On my third day in Kanchi, I headed to the Kamakshi Amman Koil in the evening like a homing pigeon. It was the day of Chandana KAppu (Sandalwood paste) alankaram that day. I went in for darshan several times as the lines were short to non-existent. I could pause and soak in the beauty of everything in the temple. While I waited between darshans and before alankaram could be done, I found a small mandapam behind the temple near the kuLam while the partly cloudy skies threw a comforting veil all above me and light wind blew in the most pleasant manner. 

I was prepared with my books and practiced/sang Kamakshi swarajathi (Bhairavi) and O Jagadamba (Anandabhairavi). I had many rounds of darshan and prasadam. The temple is very well kept in general and Kamakoti Peetham is doing an excellent job preserving the temple and the tradition.

A small mandapam where I sang songs on Kamakshi while I waited
The view of the small mandapam from another angle

On my fourth and final day, I went to Kamakshi Amman Koil in the evening as it opened so that I can take leave. I went to the now-familiar flower seller, bought a lotus garland while she threw a couple of water lilies that I was eyeing  and went in. The crowds were larger that day but I wasn't regretting it. I spent the time quietly in the lines as long as it took. The first time, the darshan was of Kamakshi without any alankaram. I had a good view of her divine pAdam and bowed down. I waited and went in for the second and final time after the alankaram in green. I took leave, donated for the prasadam fund and had my final prasadam ONCE and left as I had a very early start the next day.

Divya Desa Darshanam 

UlagaLanda PerumAL

On my way back from Kamakshi Amman Koil on my first day in Kanchipuram, I took a more direct route to my hotel which is all of 10 minutes away. Lo and Behold! I chance upon UlagaLanda PerumAL Koil. I later found out that it is not only a divya desa kshetram but also houses 3 other divya desa perumAL koils - Sri Neeragathu PerumAL, Sri KAragattu PerumAL and Sri KArvAna PerumAL. The main PerumAL who is UlagaLanda is also known as Trivikrama or VAmana in the PurANams. 

As I did in all the temples, I tried to take in the antiquity and significance of these kshetrams slowly and carefully as I did the pradakshinam. I was overjoyed to find AnDAL with her father VishNuchitta by the side in a shrine of their own among other AzhwAr shrines. I paused there and sought her grace for the ThiruppAvai yagna that I have taken on. I have whispered KuttuviLakkeriya ThiruppAvai and went on further to complete the pradakshiNam. I found a couple of devout devotees ringing cymbals and chanting various Tamil chants as they regretted why they didn't visit more often. A priest near Sri KArvAna PerumAL was trying to exhort all the visitors to learn more about our culture and faith.

UlagaLanda PerumAL
The ANDAL shrine in UlagaLanda PerumAL koil

On the second day too, I stopped at the UlagaLanda PerumAL Koil on my way back from the KamAkshi Amman Koil. It was raining quite steadily but I had an umbrella and a jacket for protection. There was even less crowd due to rain but there were a few people. I had the darshan of all 4 PerumALs as I did not note the names properly on the previous day. The garrulous priest was missing in action and in fact, the priests were preparing to close the temple down early due to inclement weather. 

I did complete the pradakshiNam despite the rain thanks to the umbrella (the metaphor of VAmana approaching Bali with an umbrella is not lost on me here!) and collected the tasty prasadam (Pulihora) and came back to Azhwar mandapam to rest and relish the prasadam. Just then, an interesting heartwarming episode happened.

As I was enjoying the Prasadam, an old couple wanted to borrow my umbrella for doing their pradakshiNam. I let them though I was in a hurry. Then, I had the idea to offer all 4 new pAsurams to AnDAL who was standing there peacefully and patiently. I sang them all to her with not a soul around. Towards the end, MaNi, the security guard came to me and appreciated it and was reminiscing how he learnt them all as a teenager. I took a picture with him. God appears in mysterious ways for sure!

My selfie with MaNi who knew to recite Thiruppavai

I feel that great things can happen in life if we don't resist life due to our own fears, anxieties and suspicions.

Then, on the third day also, I went to the UlagaLanda PerumAL temple and had the quick darshan of all PerumALs and completed the pradakshinam. Then, I sat down near AnDAL after offering two lotuses near her threshold. Then, I did the musical offering of the two older ThiruppAvai pASurams that I did not sing the previous day. I also sang MANikkam KaTTI (of PeriAzhwAr, her father). But, it was interesting that I could not recreate the spontaneous magic of the previous evening. Experiences cannot be created but they just happen when you least expect them. 

VaradarAja PerumAL

The moment we find out that there are 108 divya desams (2 are encountered in after life) out of which 15 are there in Kanchipuram, there is a desire or a goal to 'finish' them all. It was the first thought which I modulated later so that I am not hung up on that detail.

I had reserved my final day for visiting several PerumAL temples, but, I could go to only three of them not counting UlagaLanda PerumAL that I already visited thrice. Of course, I am not counting the divya desams that are in EkAmbranatha Koil (Sri NilattunDa PerumAL) and Kamakshi Amman Koil (Sri ThiruKkalvanoor or Adi VarAha PerumAL). It felt like Vaishnavaites tried to organize and protect their sacred sthalas and vigrahas by going even to the extent of taking refuge in other temples as a last resort.

Due to trasportation delays, I started late and headed directly to VaradarAja PerumAL temple. It is a little away from the hotel and found the temple to be large with so many areas not kept up well. I found the whole Temple tank, many mandapams and Venugopala Sannidhi etc. not being taken care of and left to decay. 

The approach through the temple to the main shrine is quite listless and confusing. But, finally, after climbing a few steep steps (like in Tirumala), I finally reached the main sanctum with a beautiful vigraham of PerumAL in standing posture. 
Varadaraja PerumAL koil
A group that was chanting at the Varadaraja PerumAL - Ethereal!
There was then a bee line to see and touch the golden lizard that the temple is well known for. I reluctantly waited to do what everyone is doing. Along the way, I noticed several beautiful murals with many of them fading away due to disregard to antiquity.


As time was running out, I quickly went to ViLakkoLi (Deepa PrakAshar) PerumAL temple. It is a small temple with a peaceful compound and a beautiful small temple for AnDAL. The sanctum of PerumAL's sanctum was clad with bright, burnished brass, quite fitting to the theme. There was also a sannidhi for Maragathavalli ThayAr.

Later, I headed to Sri Vaikuntha PerumAL. It is a very small but ancient (8th CE) temple built by Pallavas and is being 'managed' by ASI. The familiar lion motif adorns the outer walls. There is a huge peepal tree in the compound. A small set of idols of PerumAL are in the main shrine, a large part of which seemed to be under construction and cordoned off. I sat there and sang 'SoundararAjam' as my offering there. 



Ekambranathar Koil

This is a Prithvi linga Kshetram of the 5 Pancha Bhoota Linga Sthalas. From the moment, I had learnt 'Chintaya Maa Kanda Mula Kandam' (Bhairavi) of Sri Muthuswami Dikshitar this year, a connection with this sacred place has been firmly established in my mind. I have been marveling about the beauty and power of this temple as captured in this gem of a song. That moment has finally arrived this morning. 

As I headed to the Koil at around 9 AM, I passed by Kumara KoTTam Murugan Koil, apparently special for Muruga on Tuesdays. I also saw an old lady, probably a local flower seller by the road, removing her sandals and turning toward Kamakshi Amman Koil gopuram and paying her obeissance with a heartfelt namaskaram. I was looking around for Sri Kanchi Kamakoti Peetham on the way but could not locate it. Finally, I was deposited at a small square full of shops and I walked from there towards what seemed like a construction yard.

As I walked past an outer gopuram covered completely in scaffolding, I hesitatingly walk over an uneven and unpaved ground through a broken compound wall under a dilapidated arch. I kept checking if this was indeed the way to the temple. I bought a few vilva leaves and flowers to offer to Lord Shiva while leaving my sandals with  the helpful shopkeeper and entered a listless compound. But, before entering what seemed like the hub of activity, I noticed a very ancient and beautiful structures and sculptures to my left in  a compound with a gate that was slightly ajar. I took a detour and walked past the open gate into the compound.


There is obviously some restoration going on at a languid pace. I saw a large tank that is completely silted up and a beautiful mandapam with 4 Nandis atop. Many broken stone sculptures were strewn about a large pillared hall adorned with mesmerizing sculptures of incidents of Shiva Puranam on its crest. I moved from there to the main temple only after spending several peaceful moments immersed in that antiquity. 

I wanted to take in every little detail engraved on its walls and pillars and in that process, I wandered around to the huge bejeweled Nandi to take his permission to have the darshan of his Shiva. There was also a very endearing Ganesha decorated with a fresh garland, under a vilva tree all by himself. 


After that, I approached the main shrine passing several thresholds and halls. I was searching around for the ancient mango tree but decided on focusing on the linga darshan first. But, first, I wanted to do a pradakshinam of the sanctum. I was transfixed by the vigrahams of Naaluvar (The main 4 Nayanars - Thirugnana Sambandar, Thirunavukkarasar, Sundarar, and Manickavasagar) adorned with fresh jasmines. Their inspired outpourings some of which I know to sing come to my mind. 

There were also 108 lingams, sphatika (Crystal) lingam, a sahasra lingam (with many lingam faces on one lingam), Nilathunda PerumAL during my pradakshinam and finally entered the sanctum through the free line. It was a beautiful, uniquely shaped (due to the sand or earth that it has formed out of) lingam with the murthis of Shiva and Parvati behind it. Later, I decided to take a ticketed darshan and entered again to have a closer darshan. I pay up to do a short archana and prayed for the welfare and wellbeing of the family and came out through a hall lined with 1008 lingams. Finally, I walked into a courtyard where the beautiful 3500-year old mango tree reigns supreme. It is tightly surrounded by a manmade structure with a priest seated there. A small, vibrant and bedecked Nandi is in eternal wait in front of it.



I finally came out while taking the time to study various pavilions and sculptures of divine and even human forms on the walls and pillars. It was raining down heavily as the much-expected cyclone has finally descended in all its fury. I found a  small mandapam where I could rest going over the various songs of Shiva till the rain abated. Many flower sellers spread out next to me stringing flowers in a collaborative activity. I share some of the sumptuous prasadam including the famed Kanchi Idly with them while rain continued. I stayed there for 2 hours with no goal in mind and just taking in the time as it unfolded. 


KailAsanAthar Temple

It is situated a little away from the main bustle of the town but not very far. When you first see it, it looks like an open air museum right in the middle of a warren of small houses and shacks. It was made to stand out as a heritage piece (1300 years old built by Pallavas) while being managed by ASI inside a modern-looking compound with a lawn and linear landscaping. What struck me first other than the insistent flower seller was a number of sculptures which have degraded and lost their definition and perhaps continuing to do so since the security around this monument is minimal. There was a huge Nandi in a corner of the compound on a large pedestal.




I took a long time as usual to wander around the outer compound and saw many representations of Shiva and Parvati in small shrines all across the front. On all the other 3 sides, a series of Lions as the Pallava metaphor abounded. Lion is apparently the symbol of Pallavas and the king Narasimha Varman was also known as RajaSingham. 


I finally bought some flowers and entered into the next enclosure. It was all open to the skies and the weather was the most pleasant after the downpour of the previous day. There are two lingams - both 16-faced, installed by Narada and Vishnu. I entered the next enclosure with exquisite sculptures and ajanta-like murals all around. I took the time to see them closely with the help of the local sweeper acting as a 'volunteer' guide. There were many meditation chambers.


Many forms of Shiva in various dance poses, Ardhanareeswara and one in disguise as a mendicant (Meenakshi Sundareswarar Kalyanam?) etc. were sculpted all around the inner wall of the enclosure. Then, I had the darshan of the Shiva Lingam after the abhishekam was over. We were encouraged to go around the lingam through a Janana-MaraNa dwaram (Starts narrowly and expands gradually) to complete the pradakshiNam. I managed to do that and came out and waited in various beautiful mandapams till the priest finished the rituals and came out to do the same for the other lingam. Finally, we were given coconut rice as prasadam and then, I headed back to town for my first elai sappaDu since I arrived here.


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