After visiting Thiruvannamalai, the home of Agni lingam in 2023, I waited with bated breath to have the darshan of Chidambara Nataraja and his spatial presence (The Panchabhoota sthalam celebrating space or AkASa) till last week (17-20 September 2026).
When a time window presented itself to me, I had expressed my ardent desire to go to Chidambaram to my dear friend, Dhinakaran hoping to get some advice about the region as he was there many times. What I received in return was a very enthusiastic proposal from him to join me on the yatra right after a major event in his family. He not only joined me, but he planned it out to include many other significant Dikshitar Kshetras (the sthalams Dikshitar composed his compositions on) and drove me around.
I had the most wonderful time with a deeply devoted and knowledgeable friend visiting 5 Shiva temples and 5 divya desams of Perumal apart from Ramana Maharshi's ashram in just 4 days while carving out many hours to Chidambaram temple over 3 different visits. The temples we visited were:
I am very grateful for the blessing of this pilgrimage that manifested very naturally and easily. This is an attempt to capture my gratitude and experience while it is still fresh in my mind and heart.
The Pilgrimage begins
We began very early in the morning and stopped at Thiruvannamalai after 4 hours or so. We set foot on the holy grounds of Ramanashram and spent some time in the meditation halls there and the adjoining book shop. I bought a small image of Sri Ramana Maharshi that I regretted not getting the last time I was there.
After a quick prasadam that was being cheerfully provided by the devotees, we went straight to Arunachaleswarar koil (Agni lingam) and we had a good and easy darshan as it wasn't crowded at all. When we asked one of the security people there if it was going to take long for darshan in the General line, he quipped that it was all in His hands. We chuckled to ourselves that philosophy comes easily when we are at a temple. I offered "AruNAchala nAtham" in sAranga that I learnt several years ago while waiting in line at the temple.
We reached Chidambaram at about 4 pm. As our stay was not too far off from the temple, we headed to the temple at 5 pm after a quick refresh. In fact, over the next one and a half days, we kept going back to the temple in the morning and evening for a total of 3 times. As it happens, I always found something new that I hadn't noticed earlier in each visit.
On the first day, there was an elaborate sphatika lingabhishekam happening on the side while pujas and aratis were being offered to Nataraja who was resplendently decorated with flowers and jewellery. He shone brilliantly from wherever I looked. He was atop a tall stone pedestal and several devotees stood at two levels and the view was totally unhindered and I could watch him for hours without being hassled by anyone. It was very unlike any other temple I had been to. On our visit next morning, we went up the pedestal or stage (arangam) and offered archana and flowers.
On the last day, during our evening visit, we spent a couple of hours having the darshan of Nataraja, Sivakami Ambal as well as Govinda raja perumal and thayar and took leave. We also took in many other signs, aspects and sights of the temple. There was a point from where we could see all 4 gopurams, for example.
During darshan, I also noticed a bright and shining chandra (crescent moon) in Nataraja's locks. I could also place my focus on his feet. There are beautiful brass or Panchaloha idols of Nataraja and Sivakami in a glass case on top of the shrine at the ceiling level. They are beautifully decorated in pink silks. It is a riveting and a beautiful sight. A few archakas were offering Sri Rudram as they did homam. I also observed the utsava murthy being taken on a pallaki (palanquin) and a yound archaka took Him back to the shrine with the cries of "Utsava murthy varraar" (Utsava murthy is coming). There are so many elaborate rituals being done parallelly and with a lot of care by the 300-strong Dikshitar community which runs the temple. They dwindled in size from 3000 to 300 over the years. They are holding on to their ancestral privilege by a tenuous thread.
Having just read Sri Vinay Varanasi's loving account of his Chidambaram visit and his perspective on its secrets in his book 'Bhaktas and Kshetras', we went in search of the original presiding deity of this kshetram - Sri Adi Moolanathar. It was a beautiful but quiet shrine that could be found on our pradakshinam. The priest there said it was swayambhu (naturally occuring) and Patanjali and Vyaghrapada adorn the two sides of the main threshold leading to the sanctum. I know from the above book and also from the brilliant production "Chidambara Rahasyam" of Vinay and his team that Patanjali and Vyaghrapada were two intense devotees who brought Shiva in his Nataraja form down to earth with their burning devotion.
An interesting detail is that there is a whole Divya desam of Govindaraja Perumal right in the middle of the Nataraja temple. That, by itself is not unusual as Vishnu has a shrine in many Siva temples (Ekamreswarar in Kanchi for instance). But, the Perumal koil here has its own elaborate rituals, mangala vadyam, procession of utsava murthy and a bevy of archakas chanting in unison and conducting the rituals and offering naivedyam.
Though there is a small vigraham (idol) of Sivakami in the main sanctum, there is also a very imposing and grand sannidhi for Sivakami in the premises. I was able to offer 'Ananda Natana Prakasam' in Kedaram several times while standing before Him and taking in the resplendent sight of Nataraja.
The Next Day
Since Chidambaram was our primary focus, we went for darshan twice daily for a total of 3 times. We could experience its expanse and intensity on cool early mornings and busy evenings as well. One thing I noticed was that, while Nataraja murthy is completely visible without any hindrance for as long as we want from many vantage points, our mind wanders. It is also interesting that we notice features like the shining crescent in his locks, small Nandi in front and his padams (one on the demon Apasmara and one in the air) of course. This was a time, when I went closer to the very front and noticed Nandi blocking my view a bit. I was chuckling to myself while being reminded of "Vazhi Maraitirukkude" of Gopala Krishna Bharati from Nandanar Charitram. But I noticed that the Nandi was quite small unlike the mountain-like (malai pole) Nandi experienced by Nandanar according to the composer!
We had our last darshan on the evening of our second day there and were wandering the expansive temple. A thought occurred to me as to where all the prasadam that was being offered to the Lord went since I never partook prasadam in my previous visits. Not a very noble thought; but I am being honest.
Believe it or not, the very next moment, a devotee who just offered his home-made curd rice was calling me to receive the prasadam and I was the first one to receive it. Not just that, we found a line as we got ready to exit through the East gopuram that we quickly filed behind. It was for temple prasadam and I received a generous amount of Tomato rice. That was enough to silence me and reflect a bit!
Sirkazhi
On the second day, after our customary darshan of the arasar (king) of Chidambaram in the cool and quiet morning hours, we headed to nearby Sirkazhi. Our first stop was the ThaDalan Perumal koil - one of the three divya desams with Ulagalanda perumal as the presiding deity. What was interesting was that the deity was quite small unlike the other two in Kanchi and Thirukoilur. It was a quiet temple which wasn't very crowded when we visited it.
Then, we visited Sattainathar Sivan koil in the same town a short auto ride away. This temple has three levels - Siva as linga at the ground level, Siva in vigragam (idol) forms on the other two levels separated by a narrow, steep staircase. There is an elaborate sthala purANam depicted on the walls.
Then we headed to the famous Vaideeswaran koil (place also called this) where Siva presides there as the divine healer. My introduction to this was the Sri Vaidyanatha ashtakam I learnt during Covid time. This was set to Ragamalika by Sri RK Shriramkumar. We had heard the rendition on the way to the temple, and I chanted the first two verses which I know by heart while we had darshan at the temple. It was quite crowded with a lot of hawkers asking us to buy salt, jaggery and checking if we wanted to get our nADi jOsyam from one of the many soothsayers. We sprinkled some of the holy water of the pushkariNi on our heads and had the darshan at the main shrine. There is also an Angaraka (Mars) shrine famous for doing rituals for removing any Angaraka dosham.
We had a quick lunch at the not-so-great Aarya Bhavan nearby and headed back to Chidambaram for an afternoon of rest before getting ready for an evening at the Nataraja temple - one last time.
On our way to Nagapattinam
On the next day, we headed directly to Nagore on the way to Nagapattinam and we were keen to stop by at a small ANNan perumal temple in a small hamlet. It is quite a small temple with seemingly lax crowd regulation and sketchy premises but with a very attractive perumal who looked like Tirupati Balaji. Well, the resemblance is not a coincidence but is owed to the belief that ANNan perumal is the elder brother Tirupati Balaji. It had a huge pushkariNi attached to it and the temple itself is surrounded by devout Srivaishnava families who seem to be single-handedly managing the temple which by the way is a divya desam as well. On our pradakshinam, I was struck by the exquisite and lively forms of Sri Rama, Sita and Lakshmana on the gopuram.
We later reached Nagapattinam by 11 am leaving us enough time with the very beautiful and regal form of Perumal as Soundararaja perumal. It is a relatively small, colourful and busy temple with an imposing and highly ornamented deity. He is so beautiful to look at and it is no wonder he is called Sundararaja or Soundararaja perumal. The form is visible from afar right from the temple entry area and there was a lot to take in. I offered "Soundararajam" in Brinadavana Saranga while having the darshan. We had performed archana there and filed in again for a second darshan. A second darshan means second prasadam and our hearts and stomachs were well-fed by then.
It is to my regret that I realized that the KAyArOhaNa swamy and Neelayatakshi temple was barely a km away, a little too late. We rushed there and were greeted by archakas and staff closing the doors for the sanctum as we walked in. This temple is made famous by Dikshitar's "Amba Neelayatakshi" in Neelambari that I learnt a few years ago. We had to be content to offer our pranams from outside with a small screen separating us from Ambal. Isn't reality close to this anyway? So near yet so far!!
MayilADuthurai or MAyuram - our last stop
We reached Mayiladuthurai by evening. Our stay was right next to Parimala Ranganatha swamy koil (another divya desam) and we could see the gopuram and hear the mangala vadyam and music from our rooms. We had a quiet and wonderful darsan in the evening. What was unmistakably exciting was that there was an Andal sannidhi in every perumal koil. This time, I offered 'Muppattu moovar' Thiruppavai as I was filled with gratitude for being able to learn the 30 verses before last year's margazhi.
As we entered the rather imposing temple of Abhayamba, a devotee was singing perhaps a Tamil Pasuram. It was an ethereal feeling knowing that devotion for Abhayamba (the one who gives refuge) continues unabated over centuries. I haven't learnt any of the 10 kritis, but I paused to offer "Sri Kamalambikayai" (Sri), the mangalam kriti of Kamalamba Navavarana series. This rounded off our short tour of this blessed land of Tamilnadu.
It so happened that I couldn't time my visits to Chidambaram temple with the times they open the small door to Chidambara Rahasyam. So, it remained a rahasyam (secret) and has continued to elude me. But it was with a full heart that I returned home after this spontaneous pilgrimage.
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