Kanchipuram is an ancient city established in 3rd century BC. It is so close to Bangalore that I wonder why I never made it there for 22 years.
Kamakshi Amman Koil
For a long time, Kanchi meant Kamakshi to me through many songs on that beautiful form. I dreamed, imagined and sang about the form so much that I was very eager to visit her sannidhi in Kamakshi Amman Koil. That was indeed the first temple I visited barely an hour after I reached Kanchi.
I was approaching the entire Kanchi visit very cautiously so that I don't make it a completion of a To-Do list and miss the forest for the trees. I wanted to feel the intensity of the shrine with all my being.
I wanted to do a pradakshinam before I had the darshan. I wanted to get the whole context and bow down to everything around her before I had the audacity to enter into her sanctum for the darshan. It was 4 PM when I went in and the temple was just reopened for the evening. There was very little crowd. I bought a few lotuses to offer to AmbAL.
I paused at a huge kuLam (Temple Tank) and a peaceful neem tree as I did the pradakshinam and slowly entered the empty lines for free darshan. I went straight into the inner temple and there was a lot of expectation as I recalled the story of the bilam (cave) that Kamakshi was supposed to have come in as a 9 year old and the Gayatri Mandapam on top of it. There was a short pause in the progress of the queue and I used that time to sing Devi Brova by Syama Sastri which is full of the emotion needed to receive her fully.
I had a beautiful and intimate darshan however fleeting. Abhishekam was being done with milk, water etc. I went around the main sanctum and got back into the line as there was so little crowd and had darshan again from a closer vantage point.
I came out and was marveling about the beautifully lit gopurams on all 4 sides and the main golden gopuram in the middle while sitting on the steps of a pillared mandapam.
A priest or an administrator mentioned that Alankaram was being done then after which prasadam will be distributed. So, I went in again for darshan. This time, there was some crowd but not too overwhelming. I was trying to be more present and was focusing on the beautiful chanting by Bombay Sisters on the speakers.
Just as I neared a fork in the queue, the right branch was opened and I was let into that line which went even closer without any obstructions. I had the beautiful darshan with her form fully decorated. I was trying to focus on her feet as Vinay Varanasi mentioned a mere glance at the tip of her foot is enough to be granted all that we need and desire. It was difficult to do that as the vastram was covering her feet. I consoled myself that I at least had thought of it.
I came out and lined up for Prasadam - not once or twice or thrice but four times. I had different prasadam each time - miLagu sAdam, Sakkara Pongal, Coconut rice, curd rice and panchamritham. All high quality and tasty. The process and the fruit, both were the best!
That was a magical evening of being with Kamakshi devi and I walked back to the hotel.
On my second day, I went to Kumara KoTTam as the auto anna told me that Tuesdays are special for Murugan there. It was raining due to cyclone that day and I bought an umbrella and set out there that evening. After the darshan at the relatively small temple, I enquired by chance, the way to go to Kamakshi temple. They gave me a shortcut from behind the temple. I was thankful for the 2 minute shortcut. As I was approaching the Kamakshi temple, a flower lady was literally in tears and getting drenched in the rain requesting me to help her with a call to the shopkeeper who has locked his shop and gone home with her wares inside. I was immediately reminded of Vinay Varanasi's words that Devi could come in any form and his exhortation for us all to be open. I paused there despite the rain and helped her with what she needed. But, I do feel bad that I didn't offer her the protection of my umbrella while we interacted. I did advise her to wait in a dry place for half an hour and to come back and check on the shop. Later, I walked over to the Kamakshi Amman temple and entered into what was now a familiar place.
The free entrance was free of crowds. There was a slight pause near the sanctum as abhishekam just got completed and the curtain was drawn during the alankaram. I was thankful for the wait as I dwelled on her form and grace through Devi Brova (ChintamaNi), Brovavamma (NeelAmbari) and Ekamresha Nayike (Suddha Saveri). There was also really melodious carnatic music being played by the Nadaswaram vidwans. I thoroughly enjoyed it. I finally had the darshan, prasadam and headed back to the hotel via UlagaLanda PerumAL temple.
On my third day in Kanchi, I headed to the Kamakshi Amman Koil in the evening like a homing pigeon. It was the day of Chandana KAppu (Sandalwood paste) alankaram that day. I went in for darshan several times as the lines were short to non-existent. I could pause and soak in the beauty of everything in the temple. While I waited between darshans and before alankaram could be done, I found a small mandapam behind the temple near the kuLam while the partly cloudy skies threw a comforting veil all above me and light wind blew in the most pleasant manner.
I was prepared with my books and practiced/sang Kamakshi swarajathi (Bhairavi) and O Jagadamba (Anandabhairavi). I had many rounds of darshan and prasadam. The temple is very well kept in general and Kamakoti Peetham is doing an excellent job preserving the temple and the tradition.
On my fourth and final day, I went to Kamakshi Amman Koil in the evening as it opened so that I can take leave. I went to the now-familiar flower seller, bought a lotus garland while she threw a couple of water lilies that I was eyeing and went in. The crowds were larger that day but I wasn't regretting it. I spent the time quietly in the lines as long as it took. The first time, the darshan was of Kamakshi without any alankaram. I had a good view of her divine pAdam and bowed down. I waited and went in for the second and final time after the alankaram in green. I took leave, donated for the prasadam fund and had my final prasadam ONCE and left as I had a very early start the next day.
Divya Desa Darshanam
UlagaLanda PerumAL
On my way back from Kamakshi Amman Koil on my first day in Kanchipuram, I took a more direct route to my hotel which is all of 10 minutes away. Lo and Behold! I chance upon UlagaLanda PerumAL Koil. I later found out that it is not only a divya desa kshetram but also houses 3 other divya desa perumAL koils - Sri Neeragathu PerumAL, Sri KAragattu PerumAL and Sri KArvAna PerumAL. The main PerumAL who is UlagaLanda is also known as Trivikrama or VAmana in the PurANams.
As I did in all the temples, I tried to take in the antiquity and significance of these kshetrams slowly and carefully as I did the pradakshinam. I was overjoyed to find AnDAL with her father VishNuchitta by the side in a shrine of their own among other AzhwAr shrines. I paused there and sought her grace for the ThiruppAvai yagna that I have taken on. I have whispered KuttuviLakkeriya ThiruppAvai and went on further to complete the pradakshiNam. I found a couple of devout devotees ringing cymbals and chanting various Tamil chants as they regretted why they didn't visit more often. A priest near Sri KArvAna PerumAL was trying to exhort all the visitors to learn more about our culture and faith.
On the second day too, I stopped at the UlagaLanda PerumAL Koil on my way back from the KamAkshi Amman Koil. It was raining quite steadily but I had an umbrella and a jacket for protection. There was even less crowd due to rain but there were a few people. I had the darshan of all 4 PerumALs as I did not note the names properly on the previous day. The garrulous priest was missing in action and in fact, the priests were preparing to close the temple down early due to inclement weather.
I did complete the pradakshiNam despite the rain thanks to the umbrella (the metaphor of VAmana approaching Bali with an umbrella is not lost on me here!) and collected the tasty prasadam (Pulihora) and came back to Azhwar mandapam to rest and relish the prasadam. Just then, an interesting heartwarming episode happened.
As I was enjoying the Prasadam, an old couple wanted to borrow my umbrella for doing their pradakshiNam. I let them though I was in a hurry. Then, I had the idea to offer all 4 new pAsurams to AnDAL who was standing there peacefully and patiently. I sang them all to her with not a soul around. Towards the end, MaNi, the security guard came to me and appreciated it and was reminiscing how he learnt them all as a teenager. I took a picture with him. God appears in mysterious ways for sure!
I feel that great things can happen in life if we don't resist life due to our own fears, anxieties and suspicions.
Then, on the third day also, I went to the UlagaLanda PerumAL temple and had the quick darshan of all PerumALs and completed the pradakshinam. Then, I sat down near AnDAL after offering two lotuses near her threshold. Then, I did the musical offering of the two older ThiruppAvai pASurams that I did not sing the previous day. I also sang MANikkam KaTTI (of PeriAzhwAr, her father). But, it was interesting that I could not recreate the spontaneous magic of the previous evening. Experiences cannot be created but they just happen when you least expect them.
VaradarAja PerumAL
The moment we find out that there are 108 divya desams (2 are encountered in after life) out of which 15 are there in Kanchipuram, there is a desire or a goal to 'finish' them all. It was the first thought which I modulated later so that I am not hung up on that detail.
I had reserved my final day for visiting several PerumAL temples, but, I could go to only three of them not counting UlagaLanda PerumAL that I already visited thrice. Of course, I am not counting the divya desams that are in EkAmbranatha Koil (Sri NilattunDa PerumAL) and Kamakshi Amman Koil (Sri ThiruKkalvanoor or Adi VarAha PerumAL). It felt like Vaishnavaites tried to organize and protect their sacred sthalas and vigrahas by going even to the extent of taking refuge in other temples as a last resort.
Due to trasportation delays, I started late and headed directly to VaradarAja PerumAL temple. It is a little away from the hotel and found the temple to be large with so many areas not kept up well. I found the whole Temple tank, many mandapams and Venugopala Sannidhi etc. not being taken care of and left to decay.
The approach through the temple to the main shrine is quite listless and confusing. But, finally, after climbing a few steep steps (like in Tirumala), I finally reached the main sanctum with a beautiful vigraham of PerumAL in standing posture.
There was then a bee line to see and touch the golden lizard that the temple is well known for. I reluctantly waited to do what everyone is doing. Along the way, I noticed several beautiful murals with many of them fading away due to disregard to antiquity.
As time was running out, I quickly went to ViLakkoLi (Deepa PrakAshar) PerumAL temple. It is a small temple with a peaceful compound and a beautiful small temple for AnDAL. The sanctum of PerumAL's sanctum was clad with bright, burnished brass, quite fitting to the theme. There was also a sannidhi for Maragathavalli ThayAr.
Later, I headed to Sri Vaikuntha PerumAL. It is a very small but ancient (8th CE) temple built by Pallavas and is being 'managed' by ASI. The familiar lion motif adorns the outer walls. There is a huge peepal tree in the compound. A small set of idols of PerumAL are in the main shrine, a large part of which seemed to be under construction and cordoned off. I sat there and sang 'SoundararAjam' as my offering there.
Ekambranathar Koil
This is a Prithvi linga Kshetram of the 5 Pancha Bhoota Linga Sthalas. From the moment, I had learnt 'Chintaya Maa Kanda Mula Kandam' (Bhairavi) of Sri Muthuswami Dikshitar this year, a connection with this sacred place has been firmly established in my mind. I have been marveling about the beauty and power of this temple as captured in this gem of a song. That moment has finally arrived this morning.
As I headed to the Koil at around 9 AM, I passed by Kumara KoTTam Murugan Koil, apparently special for Muruga on Tuesdays. I also saw an old lady, probably a local flower seller by the road, removing her sandals and turning toward Kamakshi Amman Koil gopuram and paying her obeissance with a heartfelt namaskaram. I was looking around for Sri Kanchi Kamakoti Peetham on the way but could not locate it. Finally, I was deposited at a small square full of shops and I walked from there towards what seemed like a construction yard.
As I walked past an outer gopuram covered completely in scaffolding, I hesitatingly walk over an uneven and unpaved ground through a broken compound wall under a dilapidated arch. I kept checking if this was indeed the way to the temple. I bought a few vilva leaves and flowers to offer to Lord Shiva while leaving my sandals with the helpful shopkeeper and entered a listless compound. But, before entering what seemed like the hub of activity, I noticed a very ancient and beautiful structures and sculptures to my left in a compound with a gate that was slightly ajar. I took a detour and walked past the open gate into the compound.
There is obviously some restoration going on at a languid pace. I saw a large tank that is completely silted up and a beautiful mandapam with 4 Nandis atop. Many broken stone sculptures were strewn about a large pillared hall adorned with mesmerizing sculptures of incidents of Shiva Puranam on its crest. I moved from there to the main temple only after spending several peaceful moments immersed in that antiquity.
I wanted to take in every little detail engraved on its walls and pillars and in that process, I wandered around to the huge bejeweled Nandi to take his permission to have the darshan of his Shiva. There was also a very endearing Ganesha decorated with a fresh garland, under a vilva tree all by himself.
After that, I approached the main shrine passing several thresholds and halls. I was searching around for the ancient mango tree but decided on focusing on the linga darshan first. But, first, I wanted to do a pradakshinam of the sanctum. I was transfixed by the vigrahams of Naaluvar (The main 4 Nayanars - Thirugnana Sambandar, Thirunavukkarasar, Sundarar, and Manickavasagar) adorned with fresh jasmines. Their inspired outpourings some of which I know to sing come to my mind.
There were also 108 lingams, sphatika (Crystal) lingam, a sahasra lingam (with many lingam faces on one lingam), Nilathunda PerumAL during my pradakshinam and finally entered the sanctum through the free line. It was a beautiful, uniquely shaped (due to the sand or earth that it has formed out of) lingam with the murthis of Shiva and Parvati behind it. Later, I decided to take a ticketed darshan and entered again to have a closer darshan. I pay up to do a short archana and prayed for the welfare and wellbeing of the family and came out through a hall lined with 1008 lingams. Finally, I walked into a courtyard where the beautiful 3500-year old mango tree reigns supreme. It is tightly surrounded by a manmade structure with a priest seated there. A small, vibrant and bedecked Nandi is in eternal wait in front of it.
I finally came out while taking the time to study various pavilions and sculptures of divine and even human forms on the walls and pillars. It was raining down heavily as the much-expected cyclone has finally descended in all its fury. I found a small mandapam where I could rest going over the various songs of Shiva till the rain abated. Many flower sellers spread out next to me stringing flowers in a collaborative activity. I share some of the sumptuous prasadam including the famed Kanchi Idly with them while rain continued. I stayed there for 2 hours with no goal in mind and just taking in the time as it unfolded.
KailAsanAthar Temple
It is situated a little away from the main bustle of the town but not very far. When you first see it, it looks like an open air museum right in the middle of a warren of small houses and shacks. It was made to stand out as a heritage piece (1300 years old built by Pallavas) while being managed by ASI inside a modern-looking compound with a lawn and linear landscaping. What struck me first other than the insistent flower seller was a number of sculptures which have degraded and lost their definition and perhaps continuing to do so since the security around this monument is minimal. There was a huge Nandi in a corner of the compound on a large pedestal.
I took a long time as usual to wander around the outer compound and saw many representations of Shiva and Parvati in small shrines all across the front. On all the other 3 sides, a series of Lions as the Pallava metaphor abounded. Lion is apparently the symbol of Pallavas and the king Narasimha Varman was also known as RajaSingham.
I finally bought some flowers and entered into the next enclosure. It was all open to the skies and the weather was the most pleasant after the downpour of the previous day. There are two lingams - both 16-faced, installed by Narada and Vishnu. I entered the next enclosure with exquisite sculptures and ajanta-like murals all around. I took the time to see them closely with the help of the local sweeper acting as a 'volunteer' guide. There were many meditation chambers.
Many forms of Shiva in various dance poses, Ardhanareeswara and one in disguise as a mendicant (Meenakshi Sundareswarar Kalyanam?) etc. were sculpted all around the inner wall of the enclosure. Then, I had the darshan of the Shiva Lingam after the abhishekam was over. We were encouraged to go around the lingam through a Janana-MaraNa dwaram (Starts narrowly and expands gradually) to complete the pradakshiNam. I managed to do that and came out and waited in various beautiful mandapams till the priest finished the rituals and came out to do the same for the other lingam. Finally, we were given coconut rice as prasadam and then, I headed back to town for my first elai sappaDu since I arrived here.
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